It's Saturday night, my first here in Korea. I arrived on Tuesday night after taking good old Flight KE122 out of Sydney that morning. The cab driver warned of the "trouble" with women I would face in Korea, and that he saw me say goodbye to my wife out the front of our house: "uh-oh...you have trouble (wagging finger in rear vision mirror)... handsome man like you...trouble...ha ha ha..." I was about to tell him I had been friends with Emma for years (17, right?) before letting it slide. It didn't matter. Anyway, I don't take trouble - I make it.
He then told a truly humbling story of how he escaped Vietnam after being imprisoned for 3 years by the NVA as he fought for the south and was captured in 1975 and put to hard labour on a diet of not much but soup. I resolved to never complain ever again and only ever do nice things for people and turn the other cheek even when they were nasty. Like this man did:
I call this "Jesus tending to his frock." 25% of South Koreans are nominally Christian and churches like this one are common, particularly in prosperous Bundang-gu, which is where I live and work. I took this picture while walking beside the Tianchun River, which empties into the Han River (which bisects Seoul, further to the north). The original plan was to walk along the river until I could see Seoul BUT it was further than I'd expected, AND the dust and pollution of this city ensures that I don't stay out for too long at a time. Lots of Seoullites go walking or cycling by the river while wearing one of those kerchieffy things to protect their lungs. Breathing through the nose seems the best option, but this won't be possible if I want to resume running soon, as I'll be huffing and puffing away like the big ungainly and sweaty westerner that I am. In order to minimise my salience I'm planning on getting one those silky purple tracksuits that Koreans over the age of 50 have; maybe a hat with an enormous visor too.
In the mornings I walk in the opposite direction to get to school, which is called Imae-dong(2) Elementary, and takes about 25 minutes to get to. Today, one of the other teachers showed me how to use the subway system, so that will save valuable time on those days when I have slept in due to spending the previous night in Seohyun doing the lawnmower, the sprinkler, shopping with children...
The subway is amazingly easy and inexpensive to use. It costs 1500 Won to get to Seoul - about $1.70. The trains depart every 3-5 mins in peak hour and every 7-10 mins on weekends. I live on the Bundang Line which is just one way for up and one for down: there's no arsing around with changing trains at campbelltown and sitting in a carriage full of dropkicks until you reach the other side of Tahmoor. Brendan Gomola was actually on the last train I took from Mitta to Sydney before flying out and that's no lie. That's also 13 years after finishing school. That guy must have accumulated so many frequent traveller points that he is allowed to travel for free now. If he ever did bother buying a ticket that is.
Here are some pictures of my neighbourhood:
The doorway underneath the billiard balls leads to my officetel (apartment), which is 7 floors up, and sparsely furnished. I have (carefully) brought this to the attention of the authorities in a way which will not cause disharmony in the workplace, or something (just get me my LG flatscreen!)
This one is diagonally across from my place. The "Miller Time" advertising is a landmark for me as there ain't no street signs or house numbers in Korea. Funny how I haven't been lost yet, though in Sweden I was forever going the wrong way, turning the wrong direction, being the wrong person...
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Evidentally I'm not in Kansas anymore.
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I went to school on Wednesday morning after arriving the night before and life in Korea has been a blurry haze of pollution, "alien registration" and AIDS tests (fingers crossed on this one: if I am HIV positive I've lost my job and my residency AND I have AIDS - how do you say "I hate to break it to you" in Korean?) Since then I've taught a few classes and I enjoy being up front and talking to the students. Slowly. In that context it makes sense, but one thing for which the novelty is wearing off already is the way everyone stares when you are in public. This has been my greatest naivety so far: Korea is a highly homogenous society and foreigners are a rarity. When I first saw westerners during Wednesday night shopping I stared at them as well.
That's not true at all. I was busy discussing the pros and cons of flouride treatment from the young attractive Colgate representative in aisle 7.
That's not true either. I was just ogling her.
See you when I return from GEPIK teacher training next week, where I expect to meet loads of Americans banging on about their college football team.
Hey ya! Lemme know if u r heading in China, I can hook u up with some people in Beijing, Shang Hai or Guang Zhou
ReplyDeletePailin
Obviously the chances of "the air being clear anywhere near you Baldrick, are zero."
ReplyDeleteBy the way, if you've already resorted to "doing the lawnmower" then you really do need to get yourself a constructive hobby.....or a girlfriend.